Which way round, and how long?
The direction doesn't really matter, but most start in the North (Saint-Denis), head to the West and its beaches, drop down to the South, then come back up the lush East. Allow at least 4 to 5 days to enjoy it: the island is only 375 km around, but between the terrain, the hairpins and the photo stops, you drive slowly. Trying to "do the tour in a day" means seeing nothing.
Days 1-2 — The North then the West
Start in Saint-Denis: Creole centre, the seafront Barachois. Then head West on the New Coastal Road towards Le Port and Saint-Paul (its Friday and Saturday market is a must). Settle for two nights in Saint-Gilles-les-Bains: the Ermitage lagoon, Boucan Canot beach, sunset over the harbour. From there, drive up early to the Maïdo for the plunging view over the Mafate cirque, before the clouds rise.
Days 3-4 — The South and the volcano
Carry on to Saint-Pierre, the lively southern capital (seafront, big Saturday market): the ideal base for two highlights. First the climb to the Piton de la Fournaise via the Plaine des Cafres and Le Tampon — fill up before heading up. Then the wild South: Saint-Joseph, Saint-Philippe, the lava flows of the Grand Brûlé. This is Réunion at its rawest and most spectacular.
Day 5 — The green East and back
Come back up the East, quieter and more luxuriant: Saint-Benoît, the Sainte-Anne peninsula and church, the waterfalls of the Takamaka road, then Saint-André and its Tamil culture (colourful temple). It rains more often here — which is exactly what makes the East so green. You then loop gently back to Saint-Denis.
Which vehicle for the island tour?
To string together coast and highlands, a comfortable vehicle with some pick-up makes the difference on the climbs (Volcano, Maïdo). An SUV or 4x4 is ideal; a city car is enough if you stay mainly on the coast; for a group, consider a van. We cover it all in our guide Which vehicle should you rent?.
Booking smart
Ideally pick the car up right at the airport to be independent straight away (see our guide Roland Garros airport: how it works). And book ahead: the best vehicles go fast in high season. Compare local agency offers →